Baroque pearls are the next nonconformists of the fine jewelry world. They take our traditional idea of what beauty is meant to be and turn it on its head — never a bad trait to have in any woman’s fashion arsenal. The result? An extraordinary new player that’s eye-catching, statement-making, and instantly cult-covetable. 

The Times called baroque pearls the “fashionable gem of the moment.” These irregular shape pearls are appearing more and more everywhere from the red carpet to fringe festivals, and the best part is that every single one is completely different — a bit like snowflakes, except these beauties you can hold onto forever.

Let’s look at what makes these magnificent gems so special, and how to choose the ones that are right for you. 

What are Baroque Pearls?

When you think of a classic pearl strand, you probably imagine a string of smooth, round, uniform spheres. There’s certainly a reason why these distinctive gems became such an integral part of our fashion history, but did you know that pearls can actually come in any shape? 

Pearls are organic gemstones, meaning they come from a living thing (amber is another popular example of an organic gemstone). This means that every single one grows in its own unique way. Although pearl farmers are constantly trying to find ways to develop rounder, more perfect pearls in the oysters that they harvest from, the whims of nature still play a part. Some pearls will come out of their shells perfectly round, others will be slightly off-round or lopsided, and some will be different shapes completely. 

Baroque pearls come in a variety of forms, which we’ll talk about more below. They can be either cultured or natural. The vast majority of pearls on the jewelry market today are cultured pearls — that is, farmed pearls that were grown in controlled environments. Natural, or “wild” pearls, are ones that are found outside of pearl farms in the ocean or large bodies of freshwater. Because natural pearls aren’t grown without any sort of standardization or human intervention, almost all natural pearls will be baroque shapes. 

These unusual shapes pack a lot of personality. What’s more, their uneven surfaces play with light in a way that often gives them a much more intense luster than we commonly see in round pearls. They exhibit some of the most stunning colors to be found in pearl jewelry, and each one is one of a kind. 

How to Choose Baroque Pearls

Most pearls are graded based on the GIA’s seven pearl value factors: shape, luster, nacre quality, color, surface quality, size, and matching, or craftsmanship. Baroque pearls aren’t approached in quite the same way because they’re so different from standard round pearls. 

Shape

When round pearls are evaluated, the first thing examiners look at is how spherical they are. Perfectly round pearls will always be worth more than lopsided, off-round pearls. When looking at baroque pearls, however, it’s more about how well balanced and visually pleasing the shape is. Shape in baroque pearls can vary a lot, and what one person finds beautiful might be different than what someone else likes. This is part of their unique magic. 

Luster

This is one area where baroque pearls really shine — figuratively and literally. The surface of a baroque pearl is an expanse of little hills and valleys where layers of nacre gather and light reflects in a multitude of ways — not entirely dissimilar to how light passes through a diamond. As a result, most baroque pearls will exhibit very high luster with small pockets around its surface where the luster is truly spectacular. This is something that’s very difficult to achieve in round pearls. 

Nacre Quality

Nacre is the pearlescent substance built up by the oyster around the pearl form – we recognize it as mother-of-pearl. When grading round pearls, the nacre quality refers to the thickness of the layer of nacre around the nucleus, or form in the center of the pearl. Some pearls have only a paper-thin layer of actual pearl substance around a center of shell or plastic. This makes them very susceptible to wearing down over a short amount of time. Others have thicker layers or, in the case of most freshwater pearls, will be pure nacre all the way through. 

Baroque pearls, by their nature, are pearls that have deviated from their implanted nuclei. Either they grew independently — in which case, like freshwater pearls, they will be pure nacre all the way through — or they grew off and away from the center in a way that the pearl farmer didn’t plan on (in this necklace, you can see how the pearls started off as round before deciding to forge their own path). When this happens the nacre will likely be much thicker than on a traditional round pearl, and usually will be thicker in some spots than in others. This makes baroque pearls a more durable choice for everyday wear. 

Color

Baroque pearls can come in any color that round pearls are found in. Depending on the variety and country of origin, this can include white, pink, peach, lavender, blue, gold, or black. Because of the concentrations of light and nacre across the surface, baroque pearls will often show much stronger body colors than round ones. Baroque pearls with very bold or unusual colors will usually command a higher value. 

Surface Quality

Because baroque pearls are defined by their unusual shapes, surface quality isn’t evaluated as stringently as it is for round pearls. While the best round pearls will have smooth, unblemished surfaces, it’s expected that baroque pearls will have a lot of variation. The best baroque pearls should have surfaces that are smooth and unbroken by nicks and pockmarks. 

Size

Like with round pearls, large baroque pearls will be worth more than smaller ones when all other quality factors are equal. Some of the most famous baroque pearls have been in substantial sizes that went on to become beautiful works of art. 

Craftsmanship

This refers to the construction of the finished jewelry piece and how well matched the pearls are in shape, size, color, and quality. This is especially important in baroque pearl jewelry, because every one is so different.

In earrings, the baroque pearls should look like a matching pair with similar outlines — not twins, but certainly siblings. Necklaces should be made up of pearls with similar shapes that, though not identical, look like they were intended to be a matching set. Colors should be complementary and each pearl should bring out the best in the others. This is a huge challenge for jewelers, who often have to comb through hundreds of pearls to find sets that go well together. 

Because baroque pearls are so endlessly varied, the most important thing is choosing the ones that you find most beautiful. Your new baroque pearl jewelry will be as unique as you are!

Types of Baroque Pearls

Now that you know about the grading characteristics of baroque pearls, we can explore some of the amazing variety of these mysterious gems.

Ringed

These are pearls that are formed with concentric growth circles around the pearl’s circumference. They look a little bit like ringed planets. You can find rings on any type of pearl, but they’re most common on pearls with a longer growth period such as South Seas and Tahitians. 

Coin

These pearls are round and flat like a disc. They’re usually found in freshwater mussels and are a great, affordable option for unique pearl jewelry. They’re also popular in fashion design and can be used for beautiful buttons. 

Drop

When perfectly symmetrical, drop pearls are in high demand for pendants and matching earring sets. These look like a drop of rain and are flattering on everyone. To be a true baroque, though, a drop pearl should be asymmetrical and organic looking. Here’s an example of a perfectly imperfect baroque drop pearl. 

Rice

Usually found in freshwater mussels, these pearls began growing round and then began to dramatically elongate, giving them a shape like a grain of rice. They’re usually small and very lightweight, so they’re a great choice for a fun layered baroque pearl necklace.

Twin

Twinning happens when two bead nuclei get too close and begin to grow together, giving the finished pearl a bow tie effect. They’re not considered as desirable as other types of baroque pearls, but some jewelers use them very effectively in interlocking designs such as this one. 

Freeform

The true baroque pearl, these gorgeous gems are all completely one of a kind. In jewelry, they guide the jeweler’s creative direction rather than the other way around. Most natural (uncultured) pearls will fall into this category. These pearls can take any shape under the sun and are made into the most unusual, spectacular designs. 

Baroque Pearl Value

The value of baroque pearls spans as wide a range as the pearls themselves. For a baroque pearl pendant, you can expect to pay anywhere from around $100 up to an impressive $4.7m.

In general, the financial value of a baroque pearl comes down to two things:

• how unique the pearl is in shape and size
• the craftsmanship of the piece, or how expertly and innovatively the jeweler made use of that particular pearl.

In earrings and necklaces, this means creating a unique, coherent family of matching pearls. In the case of single pearls, it means finding the best way to turn the gem into something truly extraordinary. 

Rather than designing a piece and then finding a pearl to put in it, as is the case with most other jewelry items, often a jeweler will examine a baroque pearl to see what sort of story it tells. Then they’ll build up a new design around it — for instance, this gorgeous swan or this strapping merman. Baroque pearls open up a world of creativity for jewelers, which makes each piece a priceless, one of a kind treasure. 

It’s worth noting that some jewelers who are either unscrupulous or just poorly trained might try to attach the word baroque to lower-quality off-round pearls. A true baroque pearl shouldn’t be able to be graded in the same way as standard round pearls – it should have very distinctive variations that make it something entirely different. 

Baroque Pearl FAQ

The New Wave of Unique Pearls

As you can see, baroque pearls represent an entire world of lustrous possibility. They can be just about any shape you can imagine and they push the limits of what it’s possible for a pearl. Baroque pearls give jewelers a chance to challenge themselves as artists and create something entirely new, and they give jewelry lovers a chance to wear something that is completely and utterly unique.

Next time you’re pursuing the halls of a vintage boutique, keep your eyes peeled for these marvelous creations of nature – you never know what you mind find. 

Further Reading

https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/why-baroque-pearls-are-the-fashionable-gem-of-the-moment-klknqwg92

https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/summer-2015-gemnews-baroque-pearls

https://www.mastoloni.com/education/big-pink-pearl/

Any time you are shopping for pearls, the focus should always be on selecting pearls that reflect your personal taste. However, unlike natural cultured or imitation pearls which have only one color and shape, freshwater pearls offer something truly spectacular for every style and budget.

Freshwater pearls are the great shapeshifters of the fine jewelry world. Their broad range of shapes, qualities, and colors can make things pretty confusing for consumers. Let’s look at what these jewels have to offer and how to choose the ones that are right for you. 

What is a Freshwater Pearl?

When you think of a classic strand of pearls, what comes to mind? A uniform, gently glowing cream-colored cascade? A string of effervescent, multicolored beads of light? Or maybe a motley row of bending, twisting, undulating gems reminiscent of the waves of the sea itself? Freshwater pearls can be all of these things. 

A freshwater pearl is a real pearl that originates in freshwater bodies such as lakes, ponds, and rivers. They’re cultivated in freshwater mussels such as Hyriopsis cumingi and Hyriopsis schlegeli, which are completely different species from the saltwater oysters that other pearls (such as akoyas, Tahitians, and South Seas) are cultivated in.

Pearl Farming and Production

The pearl farming process for freshwater pearls is similar to that of saltwater pearls, with one very important difference. Like on saltwater pearl farms, a trained technician will surgically implant a small starter seed into the body of the mussel (or oyster, in the case of saltwater pearls). This small piece of foreign matter encourages the mussel to begin isolating it with layer upon layer of glossy, pearlescent nacre — what we sometimes call mother-of-pearl. 

The key difference is what kind of seed is used. In akoya, Tahitian, and South sea oysters, the farmer will insert a piece of biological tissue along with a perfectly round bead, usually made out of shell or plastic. There was a time when these were made out of gold, but since it was too difficult to drill a hole through solid gold to string it on a necklace, they weren’t very practical.

This inserted “starter” is called the nucleus. The tissue will encourage the oyster to begin the nacre formation and the bead gives them a form to build up the pearl around. This is why so many saltwater pearls are perfectly round.  

Freshwater Pearl Development

With freshwater pearls, the process is a little different. These pearls receive an implanted tissue irritant, but no bead nucleus…most of the time. Larger freshwater pearls, called Edisons, are being introduced onto the jewelry market with a bead nucleus, but these are still quite new and experimental. Fireball pearls are also bead nucleated.

As the freshwater nacre grows over a period of 2-7 years, the tissue, being organic matter, dissolves. This leaves a gem behind that is pure pearl all the way through. 

Without a form to grow on, however, the pearl is left to the whims of nature. Sometimes it may grow into a perfectly sound sphere, but not very often. It might be oval, drop shaped, knobbly (these are called “potato pearls”), or something with no shape at all, like a paint splotch. These are called “baroque pearls”. 

How Rare Are Freshwater Pearls?

It’s a common misconception that freshwater pearls are synonymous with “low quality”. This is largely for two reasons: the first, as we’ve seen, is that the majority of pearls that come from freshwater mussels are less desirable off-round shapes. The second is that there are a lot more of these than there are pearls of any other kind. 

On saltwater pearl farms, oysters are nearly always implanted with one single bead nucleus per harvest period, though akoyas can sometimes take two. After a waiting period of between six months and four years, depending on the oyster species, the finished pearl is removed, cleaned, and set into jewelry.

On the other hand, freshwater mussels can grow up to fifty pearls at the same time. Most of these will be fairly low grade, which means that there is a huge amount of low quality freshwater pearls saturating the market at any given moment. Because of this, some might assume that freshwater pearls are incredibly common and always low quality. However, the best quality freshwater pearls can easily rival akoya pearls in both beauty and rarity. 

How to Choose Freshwater Pearls  

All pearls are graded with the GIA’s seven pearl value factors: shape, luster, color, nacre thickness, surface quality, size, and quality of the finished jewelry item (called make, matching, or craftsmanship). Freshwater pearls are graded on a scale of A-AAA, and usually a fourth, superior grade. Different jewelers may use different terms for this, but words you might hear are Gem Grade, AAAA, Freshwater Orient, and Freshadama. 

Shape 

This is probably the most integral when evaluating freshwater pearls because, as we’ve seen, freshwater pearls come in a wide array of different shapes. Perfectly round pearls are the most sought after, and the most rare — only about 1% of all freshwater pearls produced are perfect spheres. This makes round freshwater pearls even more rare than round akoyas. 

Drop-shaped pearls are also popular choices for pendants and earrings, particularly if they’re even and symmetrical. The next most valuable would be oval or “rice-shaped” pearls, followed by more jazzy baroque shapes. 

Luster

Luster is the way light reflects off the layers of nacre that make up the pearl. This shows itself as a reflective glow on the pearl’s surface. Akoya pearls are known for their sharp, high-contrast reflections, while freshwater and south sea pearls are both characterized by their softer, satin-like luster reminiscent of moonlight on water. 

When evaluating the luster of a pearl, look at the lines around the reflections shown on its surface — they should be sharp and easy to spot. A pearl with good luster will also have high contrast between the lighter and darker areas, whereas on a pearl with poor luster the light and dark spaces will begin to blend together.

While the luster on a freshwater pearl will never be as sharp and vibrant as the surface of an akoya pearl, the best freshwater pearls will be bright, high-contrast, and show reflections clearly and distinctly. 

Color

Color is where freshwater pearls really come into their own. These gems come in a wider range of body colors than any other pearl. They can be found in classic white, pink (a true rosy pink, unlike the subtle pink overtones on some akoya pearls), peach, and even lavender (like our namesake!).

While white pearls will always be a reliable choice for jewelers, many will string different colored pearls together on a multicolor strand. Sometimes these are paired with Tahitian and South Sea pearls as well, creating a string of pearls with every color of the rainbow. 

White freshwater pearls with rose or silver overtones are the most valuable, followed by lavender and then pink and peach. When looking at colored pearls, richer, more vivid colors will sell for more than paler ones. 

Nacre Thickness 

Because freshwater pearls have no nucleus, their nacre isn’t examined the same way it is with saltwater pearls — it’s assumed that the nacre continues all the way through (Edison pearls are, of course, the exception to this). This already gives freshwater pearls a leg above all the other types, because their pure nacre makes them much more durable. It also makes them the closest thing to natural pearls. 

Surface Quality 

Surface quality is another big one for pearls of all varieties, including freshwater. It’s a little like looking at clarity in diamonds – it refers to how smooth and consistent the surface of the pearl is. Many pearls, both natural and cultured, will have little interruptions in the growing process. These show up as pockmarks, dents, or ripples in the surface that we call blemishes.

While these are a natural part of this organic gem and they show that your pearl is real, having too many of them becomes distracting and detracts from the pearl’s beauty. The best quality pearl necklaces should have no more than one or two blemishes on the entire strand. Single pearls, such as those in rings or earrings, shouldn’t have any at all.  

Size

Size is an indication of value in pearls, though not necessarily of quality. Freshwater pearls can range from 3mm up to about 15mm in diameter. When all other value factors are equal, larger pearls will sell for higher prices than smaller ones. However, if a small pearl is perfectly round and has excellent luster, surface quality, and a beautiful color, it will always sell for more than a large, dull, off round pearl. 

Make

More than just the pearl, or pearls, the make refers to the quality of the finished piece. In a necklace, this involves the following factors:

• making sure the knotting is tight in between each pearl
• checking that the pearls are well matched in size, shape, and color
• gradient sizes increase smoothly and subtly
• the colors should be well balanced and pleasing to the eye (in multicolor strands)

In earrings, brooches, and rings, you will want to make sure that all pearls and any other stones the piece is using fit together as a unified whole. 

Freshwater Pearls vs Akoyas

Which is the better pearl? Which is better value? Is one more “real” than the other? These are all valid questions to ask about two very similar gems. At their best, they’re both round, creamy, and lustrous, both icons of a classic vintage elegance. You’ll get some some strong conflicting opinions about which one is the better choice, but here are a few key differences.

Nacre

Nacre thickness is one very important difference that puts a point solidly in the court of Team Freshwater: freshwater pearls are pure nacre. That is, pure pearl all the way through. Akoyas, by contrast, actually contain very little real pearl — only a thin coating around the bead nucleus. In addition to the solid nacre making freshwater pearls much more of a durable choice for everyday wear, it’s also much more like the pearls you find growing wild in a natural environment. 

Luster

Freshwater pearls took the lead, but akoya pearls are coming up fast. When it comes to luster, nothing in nature glows quite like an akoya pearl. Pearls born in the akoya oyster have sharp, brilliant reflections that have made them the connoisseur’s choice for pearl jewelry for generations. Freshwater pearls, on the other hand, naturally have a luster that is much softer and more muted. 

Color

While color is an individual choice, it’s undeniable that freshwater pearls have a wider range to offer. Both freshwater and akoyas are available in classic white, and you can also get freshwaters in an array of glorious pastel tones. Akoyas come predominantly in white as well as yellow and, rarely, silver or blue. So which color range is best? Well, we believe its the one that looks best on you. We’re going to call this one a tie. 

Price

Here, freshwater pearls really surge ahead. While both freshwater and akoya pearls come in a range of qualities and price points, akoya pearl jewelry commands much higher prices. This is largely cultural – even the best freshwater pearls sell for around the lower range of akoya pearls. Freshwater pearls are by far the more budget-friendly option. 

Providence

We’re pulling up neck and neck here. Due to the rarity, history, and prestige of akoya pearls, and the fact that gem grade freshwater pearls are a relatively new addition to the market, akoya pearls are considered much more luxurious than their freshwater counterparts. Even when no one can tell the difference, you might find that attitudes change a little when you mention that you’re wearing freshwater pearls. Akoya pearls are indisputably the more desirable and prestigious option. 

The verdict? It’s a tie! Freshwater pearls are great for more regular wear, and for experimenting with funky new styles without breaking the bank. Akoyas are more of an investment piece for special occasion wear. 

Freshwater Pearl Value

As we’ve seen, freshwater pearls are usually a lower priced option than saltwater pearl varieties. This is because the vast majority of them are not of very good quality — you can get real, genuine freshwater pearls for only a couple of dollars at beading or craft stores. These will usually be artificially color treated, potato-shaped, and heavily marked on their surfaces. None of this, however, means that they aren’t real pearls. This is what has given rise to the myth that freshwater pearls aren’t worth very much. 

For a good quality freshwater pearl necklace, you can expect to spend anywhere between $250 and $3000. Simple stud earrings can go from $99 to $500. A gem grade freshwater strand will hold up better over time than other pearl varieties, so you can enjoy them for years to come.

This is good news, since freshwater pearls don’t have a very good resale value. If you’re looking to part ways with your pearl jewelry, or maybe you want to upgrade to a better quality piece, you may be better off giving your pre-loved pearls as a gift rather than trying to sell them off. 

Freshwater Pearl FAQ

Your Pearl Style

One of the more polarizing gems in the fine jewelry industry, freshwater pearls have some of the most devoted aficionados around. Known for their pure, unfiltered luster and their extraordinary colors, these pearls are an astonishingly affordable marvel to add to your collection. Plus, the range of sizes, colors, and shapes means you’ll never run out of covetable ideas for your next pearl jewelry splurge.

Whether you’re buying your first “starter pearl” necklace or your fortieth, freshwater pearls will never go out of style.